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Rome with kids: things to do as a family and practical tips

Taking the kids to Rome is one of the best trips a family can make: gladiators, emperors, fountains to toss coins into and a stone mouth that "bites" anyone who tells a lie. Rome is also big, hectic and, in summer, seriously hot. As hosts who welcome families all year round, we have put together the things to do in Rome with children that actually work with a stroller and a backpack in tow, and how to pace your days without ending up exhausted.

The Colosseum and the Forum, told for children

The Colosseum is the right place to start: even small children are wide-eyed in front of the arena and the underground passages where gladiators and wild animals waited. The trick is to turn it into a story: who sat where, how the trapdoors worked, why the crowd raised a thumb. A guided tour designed for kids, or an illustrated book read the night before, makes a real difference. In the Roman Forum and on the Palatine Hill children can wander among the ruins, hunt for the tallest columns and imagine the emperor's palace. Book a morning time slot online and check the archaeological park's official website for discounts and free entry for minors, which depend on age.

Villa Borghese: Bioparco, rowing boats, bikes and Explora

Villa Borghese is the park that rescues every family after a morning of monuments: at the lake you can hire a rowing boat and paddle around the little temple of Aesculapius, while the kiosks rent bicycles and four-seater pedal carts for the traffic-free avenues. Inside the park is the Bioparco, Rome's historic zoo, with a long route and plenty of shade: allow at least half a day and go in the morning, when the animals are most active. From the Pincio terrace you walk down to Piazza del Popolo and, a few minutes further on, reach Explora, Rome's children's museum: a large hands-on space to touch, experiment and play, aimed at children up to primary-school age. Entry is organised in fixed-length sessions, so it is worth booking on the official website.

Castel Sant'Angelo and the Mouth of Truth

Castel Sant'Angelo is a real castle, with ramps, passageways, cannons and a rooftop terrace overlooking the whole of Rome: for many children it is the favourite visit of the trip, and the climb is manageable even with a little one in your arms. Across the centre, in the porch of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth) draws queues of children ready to slip a hand into the big stone face: legend has it that liars risk losing it. It is a stop of just a few minutes, but told as a story the night before it becomes a game that keeps everyone engaged all day. Right next door is the grassy Circus Maximus, where kids can run free.

Gelato and pizza al taglio: every parent's best friends

In Rome the answer to a meltdown has two names: gelato and pizza al taglio. Artisan gelato is the perfect reward after a visit and the best way to slow down between monuments. Pizza by the slice, sold by weight in neighbourhood bakeries, is the ideal family lunch: quick, cheap, eaten on a bench, and every child picks their own topping; try the supplì too, fried rice balls with a heart of melting mozzarella. For dinner, Roman trattorias are genuinely welcoming to children: ask for a half portion, a simple tomato pasta and a high chair (seggiolone). Most restaurants open for dinner around 7.30pm, so if your children eat early, head for a pizzeria or make lunch the main meal.

For older kids: cycling the Appian Way and the Catacombs

With children aged seven or eight and up, a day on the Appia Antica is a proper adventure: the "queen of roads" runs between umbrella pines, villas and ancient tombs, and on Sundays and public holidays it is closed to traffic. Bikes can be hired at the park's visitor points, and you ride over the original basalt paving stones, so a little confidence in the saddle helps. Along the way, the Catacombs of San Callisto and San Sebastiano are visited only with a guide: the dark, cool tunnels fascinate older kids and are a perfect refuge in the hottest hours, but they are not suitable for strollers and can unsettle very young children.

Letting off steam: Veio Park, the garden and theme parks

After two days in the city, children need to run. A few minutes from our B&B lies the Veio Regional Park, with trails leading to the Mola waterfall and the little village of Isola Farnese: an easy walk, picnic in the backpack, that also tells the story of the Etruscans. Back at the house, the B&B garden does the rest: lawn, trees, tables in the shade and no traffic, so the grown-ups rest while the little ones play. For one completely different day, south of Rome you will find Zoomarine, with dolphins, pools and rides, and Cinecittà World, the theme park dedicated to cinema: you need a car for both, and it is worth checking their calendar and opening hours on the official websites. More family ideas in our article on things to do in north Rome.

Getting around Rome with a stroller

Rome is not the easiest city for anyone pushing a stroller: the cobblestones (sanpietrini) of the centre rattle everything, many pavements are narrow and the metro has few lifts, not all of them working. Go for a light but sturdy stroller with large wheels, or an ergonomic baby carrier for the smallest ones. From the B&B the most convenient option is the FL3 regional train from La Storta station, a few minutes from us: it stops at Roma San Pietro (for the Vatican and Castel Sant'Angelo), Trastevere and Ostiense, where you change to metro line B for the Colosseum and the Circus Maximus. The stroller rolls on open and you avoid the metro staircases altogether; your car stays parked for free at the B&B for trips outside the city.

Pacing, breaks and what to pack: practical tips

With children the golden rule is one big attraction a day: the booked monument in the morning, then lunch, a rest and a park or a square to play in during the afternoon. Here is what has worked for the families who stay with us:

• Book entries in the first morning slots: shorter queues, less heat and fresher kids.
• A water bottle each: the "nasoni", Rome's cast-iron drinking fountains, provide free drinking water all over the city.
• In the backpack: sun hat, sunscreen, wipes, a snack, a light change of clothes and a small toy for the queues.
• In summer avoid the middle of the day outdoors: take a break in your room or in the garden and head out again in the late afternoon.
• Closed, comfortable shoes for everyone: you walk a lot and the cobblestones are slippery when wet.
• In crowded places agree on a meeting point and write your phone number on a wristband or a slip of paper in your child's pocket.
• Take care at crossings: Roman traffic is lively and a zebra crossing does not always guarantee right of way.

Why stay at B&B Beni Benius Roma

If you are looking for a family room in Rome for four people, we have a simple answer: our Love Room has two double beds and sleeps up to four guests at €105 per night, breakfast included. Larger families, or two families travelling together, can book the whole apartment, with a kitchen and up to eight beds at €200 per night, so you can manage mealtimes and bedtimes your own way. Free parking, a garden where the children can play and the quiet of the La Storta area on the Via Cassia complete the picture: Rome by day, the silence of the Roman countryside at night. If you have questions about cots, strollers or itineraries suited to your children's ages, get in touch: we will gladly help.