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Via Francigena, the last stage: from La Storta to St Peter's

After weeks on the road, cold dawns and a credential full of stamps, the Via Francigena ends with two days that every pilgrim remembers: the stage that drops from Campagnano di Roma to La Storta through the Veio park, and the final walk from La Storta to St Peter's Square, when the dome suddenly appears from the top of Monte Mario. This guide is for those about to walk them: what the route is really like, where to pause, how to collect your Testimonium, and how to get back to La Storta on the FL3 train the same evening.

The stage before last: Campagnano di Roma to La Storta

In the official numbering used by the European Association of the Via Francigena ways, stage 44 links Campagnano di Roma to La Storta: 23 km, mostly on gravel tracks and footpaths, through a landscape that keeps changing. You leave Campagnano heading down to the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sorbo, cross the Sorbo valley and climb to the old centre of Formello. From there the way enters the Veio Regional Park, the protected area that holds the remains of the ancient Etruscan city, and follows the Cremera stream to the medieval village of Isola Farnese, perched on its tufa rock beneath a castle. The last section joins the Via Cassia, and a few kilometres later you reach La Storta, where the stage ends in front of the parish church.

One practical warning: the water and refreshment points lie off the route, in Formello and Isola Farnese, and the fountain at Ponte Sodo is not drinkable, so set off with full bottles.

La Storta and the Chapel of the Vision of St Ignatius

La Storta is a district of northern Rome strung along the Via Cassia, known to pilgrims since the Middle Ages: the area already appears among the halts in Archbishop Sigeric's tenth-century itinerary. The place walkers hold dearest, though, is the small Chapel of the Vision in Piazza della Visione, right on the Cassia. Here, in November 1537, St Ignatius of Loyola, walking to Rome with his companions Pierre Favre and Diego Laínez, had the vision that would shape the founding of the Society of Jesus. The seventeenth-century chapel is tiny and quiet, and many pilgrims stop here for a few silent minutes before the last day of walking.

Before you set off again, make sure your credential carries the La Storta stamp: it is the last one before Rome, and it will be checked when you ask for the Testimonium.

The last stage: La Storta to St Peter's, 19 km

Stage 45, the final one, starts at the parish church in La Storta and ends in St Peter's Square: 19 km, graded medium, not so much for the climbing as for the mix of tarmac, dirt tracks and city crossings. The first stretch follows the Via Cassia, a very busy road, especially at rush hour: you walk on the pavement in the shade of umbrella pines, passing the Giustiniana area. Shortly after the Grande Raccordo Anulare ring road you finally leave the traffic behind and enter the Insugherata Nature Reserve, an unexpected green corridor inside the city: roughly four kilometres of paths through cork-oak woods, with some rough sections that turn muddy after rain. Following the waymarks you climb to the Monte Mario Alto neighbourhood and reach the Via Trionfale, the ancient road that led to the Vatican.

From here the official route heads for Monte Mario park. There is also a variant along the Monte Mario–Monte Ciocci cycle and footpath beside the railway: it was recommended as a detour when Monte Mario park was closed after fallen trees, so check the latest notices on viefrancigene.org the day before.

Monte Mario, the Mons Gaudii: Rome at your feet

The moment every pilgrim waits for comes in the Monte Mario Nature Reserve. Rome's highest hill was known to medieval pilgrims as Mons Gaudii, the "mount of joy": from the lookout you see the Tiber, the Olympic Stadium and, at last, the dome of St Peter's rising on the horizon. This is the place for a long pause, a photograph and a few quiet minutes: after hundreds of kilometres, the goal is right there in front of you. The descent crosses the park along the Passeggiata Massimo Cimino, with the dome always ahead, and comes out in the Prati district. From Piazzale Maresciallo Giardino you take Viale Angelico, cross Piazza del Risorgimento and, along Via di Porta Angelica, walk into Bernini's colonnade. The stage, and the Via Francigena, end here.

Testimonium and credential: how to complete the pilgrimage

The Testimonium is the certificate confirming that you have completed the pilgrimage to Rome. To receive it you must show your pilgrim credential with the stamps collected along the way and prove you have walked at least the last 100 km on foot (the threshold rises to 200 km for cyclists). The credential should be requested before departure from one of the issuing bodies, such as the European Association of the Via Francigena ways or the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome; some will post it to you. In Rome, according to the official Turismo Roma guidance, the final stamp is given in the sacristy of St Peter's Basilica, where volunteers welcome pilgrims and hand over the parchment. Allow time for the security checks at the entrance to the basilica, and check current opening hours and procedures on the official website before you arrive.

Practical tips for the La Storta to St Peter's stage

• Start early. Walking at dawn means lighter traffic on the Cassia, less heat in the middle of the day and time in hand at St Peter's for the Testimonium.
• Water. Drinking fountains are frequent along the official route, but there are none in the Insugherata section: fill your bottles before entering the reserve.
• Traffic on the Cassia. Stay on the pavement, cross only at pedestrian crossings and take extra care near the ring road junctions.
• Waymarking. Volunteers have renewed the signs, but the Insugherata has many junctions: carry the GPX track or the official app and avoid unmarked paths.
• Dress code for the basilica. Shoulders and knees must be covered to enter St Peter's: keep a light change of clothes in your pack.
• Check the notices. Park closures and detours are published on viefrancigene.org; a quick look the evening before avoids surprises.

Getting back to La Storta on the FL3 train

Many pilgrims choose to sleep in La Storta the night after arriving too, to rest away from the bustle of the centre and collect their car or luggage. Getting back is easy: from the square it is a short walk to Roma San Pietro station, where regional trains on line FL3 leave towards Cesano, Bracciano and Viterbo. The train calls at Valle Aurelia, Balduina, Monte Mario, Ottavia and La Giustiniana, and reaches La Storta station in about half an hour (check timetables on the Trenitalia website). Check current times on the Trenitalia app. If you have a spare day, use it to discover what to do in northern Rome, from the Veio park to Lake Bracciano.

Why stay at B&B Beni Benius Roma the night before

The night before your last stage deserves a comfortable bed and a stress-free start. B&B Beni Benius Roma is at Via Cherasco 461, in the La Storta area along the Via Cassia, and offers pilgrims what really matters: quiet rooms with breakfast included so you set off with energy, a garden to stretch your legs and dry your gear, and free parking for anyone accompanying a walker or leaving the car for the weekend. Our rooms start from 65 € per night; the Love Room sleeps up to 4 for 105 €, ideal for a small walking group, and the whole apartment is available for 200 € per night. La Storta station on the FL3 line connects the area with Roma San Pietro, handy for getting back in the evening. Message us on WhatsApp with your arrival date: we will be glad to welcome the end of your journey.